Cosmetic Grade98% ,Food Grade98% ,Industrial grade98%,POLYGLYCERYL-10 OLEATE 9007-48-1

What is Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate? How does it work? What are its cosmetic applications?

1. What is Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate? How does it work?

Polyglyceryl-10 oleate (polyglycerol-10 oleate) is a polyglycerol fatty acid ester, being the product of the partial esterification of decaglycerol and oleic acid (CAS number 9007-48-1). It is a viscous liquid of light yellow color. The molecules consist of a hydrophilic polyglycerol head with several hydroxyl groups and a hydrophobic oleic acid chain. It is a common nonionic surfactant with wide range of applications in skin care, cleansing, makeup removal, color cosmetics, sunscreens and personal care products due to its various properties like emulsifying, solubilizing, dispersing and emollient properties. This is exactly the key function it performs in cosmetic formulations.

Basic information: Chinese name: Polyglyceryl-10 oleate (also called decaglyceryl monooleate, polyglyceryl-10 monooleate) English name: Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate (INCI name) CAS number: 9007-48-1 Composition: Partial esterification of decaglyceryl and oleic acid; Appearance: Light yellow viscous liquid, slightly sweet taste; Insoluble in cold water and hot water, can be dispersed in emulsion by stirring; Soluble in glycerol, propylene glycol, hot ethanol etc. HLB value : 8-14.5 approx. Melting point: Under 0℃. Synonyms: Decaglyceryl monooleate, Decaglyceryl monooleate and etc.

Structurally，Polyglycerol-10 oleate is structurally a product of partial esterification of polyglycerol and oleic acid. The hydrophilic part is a polyhydroxy chain of 10 glycerol units linked by ether bonds and densely packed with hydroxyl groups. The hydrophobic part is a C18 long chain of oleic acid (cis-9-octadecenoic acid) linked to the polyglycerol chain via ester bonds. It is generally an amphiphilic structure with a hydrophilic head of polyhydroxyl groups and a hydrophobic tail of a long chain, and it is classified as a nonionic surfactant; polyhydroxyl groups give strong hydrophilicity and mildness, and the oleic acid chain provides hydrophobic anchoring, which is the structural basis of its emulsification and solubilization functions.

Physically，Polyglycerol-10 oleate is a light yellow viscous liquid physically, odorless and slightly sweet, insoluble in cold water, but dispersible into an emulsion in hot water with stirring, soluble in glycerol, propylene glycol, hot ethanol, and cold ethyl acetate, etc., melting point is below 0℃, its HLB value is about 8-14.5 (the decameric version is in the higher range), its LogP is negative, indicating strong overall hydrophilicity, and it is a liquid with good flowability at room temperature and easy to formulation processing.

Chemically ,Polyglycerol-10 oleate is a nonionic surfactant in chemistry, which means it contains no ionic groups in its molecule, does not react with electrolytes, acids or alkalis by saponification or precipitation, and has good compatibility, the ester bond can be slowly hydrolyzed under strong acid, strong alkali or prolonged high temperature conditions, it is thermally stable and its properties are stable at conventional cosmetic processing temperatures, it has mild chemical properties and low skin irritation.

Why Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate Plays These Roles In Skincare, Cleansing, Makeup And Personal Care Cosmetics: The mechanism of action mainly includes the following:

The hydrophilic head of polyglycerol: polyglycerol-10 segments have high hydrophilicity and a large number of hydroxyl groups. Emulsification mechanism of polyglycerol They form an amphiphilic structure with the hydrophobic chain of oleic acid, adsorb at the oil-water interface, reduce interfacial tension and form a stable and delicate oil-in-water emulsion - this is the core of its use as an O/W emulsifier.

Oleic acid chain hydrophobic anchoring mechanism: The C18 cis long chain of oleic acid provides hydrophobic anchoring and interfacial steric hindrance, thus making the emulsion film flexible and not easy to break, and the emulsion is stable during storage and use.

Micelle solubilization mechanism : The hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB 8-14.5) is moderate, enabling the formation of micelles in the aqueous phase, and the solubilization and encapsulation of oil-soluble components such as fragrances and essential oils in the micelles, leading to a transparent or semi-transparent system.

Mild and low-irritant mechanism： Non-ionic surfactants are non-ionizing and have a mild effect on the proteins and lipids of the skin's stratum corneum, so the irritation is low. It is suitable for sensitive skin and baby care.

Moisturizing film-forming mechanism : The moisturizing properties of the hydroxyl groups of the polyglycerol chain and the hydration provided by the oleic acid chain. The two work together to form a soft moisturizing film on the skin surface - the basis of the moisturizing feel and moisturizing effect.

II. All uses of cosmetic-grade Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

1. Creams, Lotions & Serum

Emulsifier Oil in Water

It is utilized in O/W emulsions to stabilize emulsion systems of creams, lotions and serums and provide a smooth skin feel.

Related products: face cream, lotion, serum, body lotion etc.

Skin moisturization and modification of skin feel

It enhances the feel of the formula as a moisturizer and gives a soft and moisturizing application experience.

Related products: Moisturizer, hand cream, makeup primer etc.

2. Cleanse and Remove Makeup

Surfactants for skin cleansing

It is a mild nonionic surfactant that cleanses skin with low irritation and no tight feeling.

Related products: facial cleanser, facial cleanser gel, foaming cleanser, etc.

Make up remover emulsifier

Emulsifies oil soluble make-up, dirt and emulsifies the make-up remover with contact with water to make it easy to rinse.

Related products: oil cleanser, milk cleanser, cleansing balm...

3. Beauty industry

Foundation & Base Makeup

disperses pigments and powders , stabilizes the emulsion system and ensures the foundation is applied evenly and smoothly .

Related products:Liquid Foundation, Cushion Foundation, Concealer, etc.

Lip Products & Lipsticks

It disperses pigments and wax ingredients, improving the spreadability and feel of lip products.

Related products:Lipsticks, lip glosses, lip balms, etc.

Eye shadow and brow products

Disperse powder pigments to enhance the color rendition and adhesion of eyeshadow.

Related products:eyeshadow, eyebrow powder, eyebrow pencil, etc.

4. Sunscreen and Special Care

Stability of emulsion sunscreen

It emulsifies and stabilizes the sunscreen agents. It helps the chemical sunscreen agents to disperse evenly and form a uniform film.

Related Products: Sun Block, Sun Lotion, Sun Screen Spray etc.

Baby & Sensitive skin care

Low-irritant emulsifiers for baby skin care and sensitive skin care products.

Related Products: Baby Cream, Baby Lotion, Sensitive Skin Face Cream etc.

5. Hair and body care products;

Shampoo & Conditioner

It is a mild surfactant and conditioner that cleanses and reduces irritation.

Related products:shampoo, conditioner, scalp care solution, etc.

Body Care & Bathing

It is used in shower gels and body lotions to cleanse and moisturize skin gently.

Related products: shower gel body lotion bath oil etc.

6. Solubilization of the fragrance & facial mask industry

Solubilization of fragrances and essential oils

It acts as a solubilizer for water based products of oil soluble components such as fragrances and essential oils.

Related products:Toners, serums, fragrance sprays, etc.

Emulsification and Skin Feel of Masks

It stabilizes the emulsifying system of the mask and improves the feel and penetration of the mask essence.

Related products:Sheet mask, Cream mask, Sleeping mask, etc.

III. Summary

Polyglyceryl-10 oleate (CAS 9007-48-1) is a nonionic surfactant. It is the partial ester of decaglycerol and oleic acid. The multiple hydroxyl groups in the hydrophilic head of the polyglycerol provide good hydrophilicity, gentleness, and moisturizing properties. The C18 hydrophobic chain of oleic acid provides emulsification and moisturizing effects. This amphiphilic structure allows it to stabilize oil-in-water emulsions, solubilize fragrances, disperse makeup pigments, and provide gentle cleansing and moisturization. It is a common emulsifier and emollient in many categories of cosmetics, from daily face creams and sunscreens to makeup removers, foundations, shampoos and baby creams. The multi-hydroxyl structure and amphiphilic properties explain the formulators’ perception of this as a gentle and versatile oil-in-water emulsifier.